The Mysterious Initiation Well at Quinta da Regaleira
This 88-foot-deep well is located on the land of Quinta da Regaleira, near the town of Sintra, Portugal. The well was never used as a well and, in fact, was never built to serve as a water resource at all. It was actually built for secret ceremonial purposes.
Located near the historic center of Sintra, Portugal lies the Quinta da Regaleira- a spectacular estate that sits in a World Heritage protected landscape. While thousands of tourists flock to the castle every year to admire the unique architecture of the Quinta de Regaleira that combines Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish and Renaissance features, one of its most fascinating features is located beneath the ground – a pair of wells spiraling deep within the earth. The wells were never used, nor intended for water collection. Instead, these mysterious underground towers were used for secretive initiation rites.
The owner of Quinta da Regaleira, the wealthy Portuguese businessman Antonio Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, was a well-known Freemason. With the assistance of the Italian architect Luigi Manini, he designed and constructed the four-hectare property with enigmatic buildings, mysterious parks, and underground tunnels.
All of the structures erected in Quinta da Regaleira are filled with many symbols, which are linked to masonry, alchemy, the Rosicrucian and Hermetic legacy, the Knights Templar and Tarot mysticism.
The Quinta de Regaleira estate, which is sometimes referred to as "The Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire” after its latest owner, consists of a palace and chapel with exquisite décor including frescoes, stained glass windows, and lavish stuccoes. The estate grounds feature lakes, grottoes, wells, benches, fountains, and an extensive and enigmatic system of tunnels that connect to two spiraling wells.
The estate’s park also contains a large garden and an extensive and puzzling system of tunnels, which have numerous entrances constructed in different styles. Grottoes, as well as a chapel can be seen, and also the Waterfall Lake, and Leda’s Cave, which lies under the Regaleira Tower.
The Initiation Well
|Photo: Grownup Travels|
The Initiation Well is, perhaps, one of the most famous attractions in all of Sintra. Its mysterious design, without any clear purpose, is a source of fascination. From photographs taken from the bottom of the well, looking out at the circular patch of sky above, it looks like a tower built into the ground.
The pair of wells, known as the ‘Initiation Wells’ or ‘Inverted Towers’, consist of ‘winding stair’ architecture, which carries symbolic meaning including the death/rebirth allegory common to many hermetic traditions.
This well, it is said, was designed to represent the nine circles of Dante’s Inferno. Although it is only six stories deep, the experience of walking down the well makes it feel like it extends further. This sensation is a testament to its evocative design.
|Photo: Madhouse Heaven|
At the very bottom of the well is a circular floor, simply decorated with coloured tiles in shades of ochre. Here, the tiles depict the cross of the Knights Templar, a symbol exclusive to Free Masons who believe in the Christian doctrine. Monteiro and Manini had taken an idea and turned it into a structural concept. The Initiation Well, and indeed, all of the Quinta da Regaleira, is artistic expression at its finest.
A smaller well, called the “Unfinished Well,” contains a set of straight staircases, connecting the ring-shaped floors to one another. It is believed that the spacing of the landings, as well as the number of steps in between were dictated by Masonic principles.
|Bottom of the Initiation well. Author: Stijndon – CC BY-SA 3.0|
The main way out from the bottom of the Initiation Well is a truly magical path. Sunlight streams in through the rough arches cut into the walls of the tunnel. From the arches, you can see the Lake of the Waterfall, which separates the caverns of the wells from their exit. The lake is crossed by bridges that seem completely natural – as if nature had placed them over the water for the convenience of visitors to the park.
|Photo: Grownup Travels|
What To See at Quinta da Regaleira
1. Palace Exterior
The palace and its ensemble are a bit of an architectural curiosity. The buildings are adorned with a heady mix of Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish, Neo-Manueline, and Renaissance features. Naturally, there are gothic turrets and gargoyles.
One balcony caught my eye. It was filled with fantastical winged animals, including what looked like a rabbit and a lizard. There were many plant motifs in the stonework.
2. Palace Interior
On the first floor, there are formal rooms, such as the dining room, music room, etc. There are intricate inlaid mosaic floors, ornate fireplaces, and elaborate wooden ceilings. Although palace has five floors, but you can only explore the first floor.
3. The Garden Complex
But Quinta's garden complex is its crown jewel. It's littered with playful and intriguing follies.
On one of the main paths into the estate is the Promenade of the Gods. Stone statues of Venus, Hermes, Dionysus, and many other Greek gods and goddesses line this pathway, some intertwined with plants. Dionysus is featured throughout the estate. He's a symbol of the mysteries of the Free Masons:
5. Tunnels in the Garden
|Photo: The Geographical Cure|
From the bottom of the well, a passageway, hidden from the top, leads to a maze-like web of tunnels beneath the garden. Some are lit up with light strips.
Others remain dark and slightly haunted, but are perfectly safe. We could have used a small torch. Honestly, if you really want to explore, consider bringing a small flashlight.
There are multiple entrances and exits to the tunnels throughout the garden. One features stepping stones over a small lake to a waterfall.
6. The Chapel
|Photo: Grownup Travels|
This beautiful, delicate building, decorated with Manuelian floral motifs is the most elegant place of worship. The design contrasts elaborate patterning with simple white washed walls. Inside, the alter selectively uses gold leaf such that it enhances the beauty of the chapel, instead of overwhelming it with its overuse. If the walls of the chapel seem golden at times, it is because they have been hit by sunlight.
This chapel is thoroughly fascinating. Although Christian in design, it shows how no religious belief is ever truly separate from all the others that have come before. Apart from the usual Catholic imagery and statues, the chapel also spotted pentagrams surrounding the Order of the Christ Cross and the symbol of the Free Masons on the ceiling of the doorway.
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