In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear

By looking at photos of Hanoi's the past and present, it proves the Vietnamese capital has always been a city of peace and harmony.
January 04, 2023 | 08:21

The year 1940, when the famous "Sword Lake" collection by photographer Harrison Forman was taken, seems a lifetime ago. Hanoi has changed in many ways, surviving foreign invaders to become a thriving capital city. Sword Lake is emblematic of these changes, with details from yesteryear and today’s world.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
Rickshaws in the Sword Lake, Hanoi (Photo: Harrison Forman).

Yet, seeing the same location captured in black and white pictures placed next to the modern time's colored pictures, one can spot the strong resemblance between the past and the present in spite of the 82-year gap.

In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
(Photo: Nhung Nguyen)

Although the lakeside wears an urban appearance with concrete pavements, tall buildings and becomes a social/ commercial hub every weekend, there is always a sense of community at every corner.

During the French colonial period, people enjoyed leisure activities such as fishing and strolling. More than eight decades later, the lake still offers an open space right in the heart of Hanoi, so people can take their time and slow down from the fast-paced city lifestyle.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
(Photo: Harrison Forman)
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
(Photo: Nhung Nguyen)

On the other hand, the lakeside used to be a market of local goods, a few stalls with wooden tables and leave-made shades. The scene around the Sword Lake is not much different today, but instead of local goods, you can buy everything at the lakeside stores. Colorful shops with neon lights and bright color signs, all welcome customers to try the latest, most trendy products.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
(Photo: Harrison Forman)
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
Products from all over the country displayed at the market in Sword Lake, in December 2022 (Photo: Nhung Nguyen).
(Photo: Harrison Forman)
People enjoyed shopping by the lakeside (Photo: Harrison Forman).
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
Now, they can also treat themselves at many restaurants and cafe around the lake (Photo: Nhung Nguyen).

Among the things that has changed about Sword Lake, there were times when fishing and swimming were allowed. Thap Rua (The Turtle Tower) was actually built during the reign of King Le Thanh Tong to serve as a place for the king to go fishing.

Now, if you were looking forward to swing your fishing pole, sit back in carp chair with a can of beer, you might find better luck elsewhere. Fishing and swimming in Sword Lake are heavily fined, after some showboats dared to try.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
Thuy Ta Restaurant on the lakeside. (Photo: Harrison Forman)
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
(Photo: Nhung Nguyen)

There are many things that successfully lasted through time in the Sword Lake, although some did not due to the resistance of the people.

During the French colonial period, on the top of the Turtle Tower, there was a version of the Statue of Liberty (1890-1896). This verson of the Statue of Liberty was called the Dam Xoe statue by the locals. In the 1950s, this statue was demolished. It was supposed to be the symbol of a just and peacful society, and that was not represented at the time.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
A boy fishing by the lake (Photo: Harrison Forman).
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
Children enjoy their day-out at the Sword Lake, in a different way (Photo: Nhung Nguyen).

If you are a tourist in Hanoi, taking a walk under the bright and clear sky by the Hoan Kiem lakeside is an excellent way to discover the charm of this capital city.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
A bomb shelter at the lakeside......(Photo: Harrison Forman)
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
..turned to a modern-day date spot for young couples (Photo: Nhung Nguyen).

You can be standing at a random spot in the pavement, not knowing there lied an underground wartime bomb bunker, or a guard stand. The wartime past had gone, the city thrived to become Vietnam's economic and social hub. The Sword Lake is now a peaceful playground for people by the weekend, hustler and bustler than ever.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
Two ladies walking by the lake (Photo: Harrison Forman)
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
The Sword Lake is a popular destination for young people to take pictures (Photo: Nhung Nguyen).

Thap Rua (Turtle Tower) in the middle of the lake still stands tall and plays an important role of delivering a sense of community among Hanoian people. It acted as the witness of these significant changes. Withstanding the time, the Tower keeps the proud posture of a noble feature unfaded by the ever-changing surrounding.

(Photo: Harrison Forman)
Thap Rua is an example of the Gothic architecture style of Europe combined with the curved roof keeping the Vietnamese architectural rules (Photo: Harrison Forman)
In Photos: Sword Lake of Today and Yesteryear
(Photo: Nhung Nguyen).
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