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The seminar themed "Preserving and celebrating the intangible cultural heritage of Hanoi Pho" was held on December 1 in Hanoi during which many culinary experts, artisans, managers shared many stories about the origin, development and spread of Hanoi's Pho, Hanoi Times reported.

Hanoi Pho, a traditional dish that has left a deep impression on Vietnamese culture, is listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. Le Thi Minh Ly, Vice President of the Vietnam Cultural Heritage Association, said that the exact origin of pho remains unclear and is still a subject of debate.

"What’s important is that pho is a long-standing creation of the Vietnamese people, and this creation has become a unique characteristic of Hanoi. That’s why Hanoi Pho is so famous."

A bowl of pho with beef. Photo: CNN/Leisa Tyler

She said Hanoi Pho has been recognized as an intangible cultural heritage under the category of "folk knowledge." What makes Hanoi Pho special is its use of ingredients and cooking techniques passed down through generations.

“The chefs of this intangible cultural heritage are those who have passed down the craft over many generations. They not only practice pho-making for a living but also infuse creativity and individuality into preserving the tradition, ensuring it remains unchanged, uncommercialized, and not transformed into a different dish, thus creating their own brand,” Ly said.

Artisan Pham Thi Anh Tuyet, a national artisan who has cooked Hanoi Pho for international dignitaries and celebrities visiting Hanoi, said: "When I serve pho to international guests and high-ranking leaders, they are always amazed by the dish. They describe it as a perfect combination, praising Hanoi Pho as a distinctive Vietnamese dish, with a harmonious and delicate blend of spices."

When coming to all over the world, diners love to enjoy Pho. It has become the national soul of Vietnam, said Tuyet.

A cultural symbol

There are also opinions that Hanoi Pho is not only a Vietnamese specialty but also a symbol of cultural exchange. Artisan Bui Thi Suong told that she often introduced Vietnamese cuisine during her overseas trips. "Pho is the first dish we present in markets like Europe and Australia. In the past, pho was often referred to as ‘Beef Noodle Soup’ in English, but now, every country uses the term Pho. We feel very proud of that."

According to Suong, pho has developed differently in many localities, such as adding of other ingredients, but the key ones like beef bones, beef, sa sung (sea worm), cinnamon, and star anise must remain unchanged.

“In some countries, chefs even add fruits when making pho, which is an interesting creative twist on the traditional flavor. However, as long as the traditional Vietnamese taste is maintained, such creative variations are acceptable, especially if they make the dish tastier, more beautiful, and more suited to the local tastes of different regions and countries.

Speakers at a seminar held by the Hanoi Department of Culture and Sports and Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper in the capital on December 1. Source: SGGPO

At the seminar, experts and artisans all affirmed that the registration of Pho Hanoi is not only a recognition of the cultural value of a dish but also an opportunity to promote Vietnamese cuisine to the world. Pho Hanoi not only helps develop the economy but is also a source of national pride, a dish imbued with the cultural identity of Vietnam.

To be officially recognized as a heritage, Vice President of the Vietnam Cultural Heritage Association Ly said that the pho shop owners must also demonstrate sharing, hospitality, and a sense of community. To get the State’s protection, the owners have to commit to preserving its core values and contributing to the development of the capital and the nation.

"Being recognized means the State takes responsibility for the heritage. Hanoi Pho is a value that the State must protect, which is why it has now been officially listed."

Nguyen Thanh Loi, Editor-in-Chief of Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper, said that this seminar is an important activity in the Hanoi Culinary Culture Festival 2024, focusing on the protection and enhancement of the national intangible cultural heritage 'Hanoi Pho'.

Starting December 1, the newspaper officially launched the section "The Culinary Essence of Hanoi." The newspaper has invested in expertise and applied technology to enhance engagement with this section.

“We have published numerous articles on cultural topics, especially focusing on the preservation and promotion of intangible cultural heritage, including "Hanoi Pho." This allows both Vietnamese people and international visitors to access information about Hanoi Pho, helping to honor the artisans—guardians of the heritage—who dedicate their time and intellect to protecting and developing this cultural treasure.

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