Ghostly Delights at Bac Ninh's Market of the Dead

When foreign tourists visit Vietnam during the Tet Holiday, they have a chance to explore Yin Yang Market, also known as the Market of the Dead, in Bac Ninh which only opens once a year.
February 19, 2024 | 09:41

The market opens only once a year in the late afternoon of the fourth day of a lunar year and ends early the next morning in O Village, now the Xuan O neighborhood in Vo Cuong Ward under Bac Ninh City.

Ghostly Delights at Bac Ninh's Market of the Dead
Legend has it that the market was a place where dead people met their living friends and relatives. Photo: Giaoducthoidai

Legend has it that the market was a place where dead people met their living friends and relatives, according to Nguyen Xuan Hung, head of the Xuan O neighborhood. Living people would burn incense, votive paper, candles, or oil lamps to connect with the afterlife, he added.

Yin Yang Market has become a form of cultural activity imbued with the folk beliefs of the Kinh Bac people. After midnight, the market became less crowded, and market-goers sat down for some sips of water, treated each other to some pieces of betel, and listened to Quan Ho Bac Ninh (local Bac Ninh love songs).

Ghostly Delights at Bac Ninh's Market of the Dead
The main goods exchanged at the market are black cocks, fake money, incense, betel and areca nuts. Photo: Giaoducthoidai

According to historical documents, Yin Yang Market dates back to the year Nham Dan 43 AD and only held a single session on the night of the 4th day of the Lunar New Year and ended at dawn on the 5th day of January.

People believe that there will be the souls of their ancestors and relatives coming back to meet the living again. Attending the market is also a way to comfort and encourage each other to soothe the grief of losing loved ones. This belief, along with their religious routines, can be considered as a bold characteristic of the spiritual lives of Northern people.

Ghostly Delights at Bac Ninh's Market of the Dead
People believe that there will be the souls of their ancestors and relatives coming back to meet the living again. Photo: Giaoducthoidai

Though being called a market, there are hardly any stores or stalls, and people who join the market usually bring along a chicken alive to make a sacrifice for the god there. People barely bargain about the prices, just discussing together in their smallest voices.

Because the market is joined by dead souls who flocked to buy things and exchange sorrows for happiness, participants did not talk and laugh loudly for fear that the souls would be scared, nor set any light as the black cocks might crow and turn the souls away.

Ghostly Delights at Bac Ninh's Market of the Dead
People flocked to the market just to wish for a lucky new year and sing local quan ho (love duets) melodies. Photo: Giaoducthoidai

To locals, the market was similar to a harvest festival in other localities. People flocked to the market just to wish for a lucky new year and sing local quan ho (love duets) melodies.

The main goods exchanged at the market are black cocks, fake money, incense, betel and areca nuts.

Ghostly Delights at Bac Ninh's Market of the Dead
Participants did not talk and laugh loudly for fear that the souls would be scared. Photo: Giaoducthoidai

At the entrance of the market, there was a basin of water for the market attendants to check whether the money they received for the dead was real or fake.

Ghostly Delights at Bac Ninh's Market of the Dead
Yin Yang Market has become a form of cultural activity imbued with the folk beliefs of the Kinh Bac people. Photo: Giaoducthoidai

About 30km from the capital of Hanoi, Bac Ninh is an interesting destination for domestic and foreign tourists which is famous for Quan Ho folk songs. Visitors can go to Bac Ninh at any season of the year, however, spring is the best time when the many festival takes place in this province.

Bac Ninh used to be an ancient trade center of Vietnam from the century 2nd to the 10th. Here is the homeland of Buddhism. Buddhism penetrated this land so early; however, it bloomed brightly in the Ly Dynasty. Hence, visiting this site, tourists will be impressed by a system of old pagodas and temples that reflect all the cultural characteristics and architecture of Buddhism. Some typical names of pagodas and temples can be given, such as Keo Pagoda, Dau Pagoda, But Thap Pagoda, Phat Tich Pagoda, Do Temple, etc. This is the precious tangible cultural value passing from generation to generation. All the value is also the pride of Bac Ninh’s people and everyone has to try their best to preserve.

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Charlotte Pho
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